Late update 5th September

Fri 24th
We left Port Medoc about 7am to head to sea via the South Channel on the last of the ebb, which is supposed to be a bad place if the wind & swell is coming in from the west or north west, but we had a light wind from NNE so the channel was no problem. Last night, before we left we had been talking to a couple of Brits who had kept a boat in the Port Medoc area for a couple of years and they were asking us were we were from. When we mentioned Ardorran they knew the area and told a story of how they had anchored in Barnacarry Bay because they didn’t have the confidence to go in and it was too stormy to go up Kerrera Sound. But when they were at anchor a Moody went steaming past and straight into the channel to go into Loch Feochan; so they upped anchor and followed it in. Well!! Was they boat called Donara, we asked, - and it was – so then we had a chat about some of the great characters at Ardorran.
However the wind didn’t pick-up any during the day and we had to motor. We were taking a direct course to Santander across the firing practice range (which the kind lady in the office had checked that it would be OK – no Firing…) , but then halfway across the engine spluttered and died – water in the fuel from Port Medoc.
Ah Weel ! as they say ( or “ Did ye learn anything!” ). Drained the filters and a few other checks then got the engine back on after about 45 mins. We needed to top-up with fuel just in case, otherwise we would have left it until Spain (1.19 euros/ ltr in France – 0.95 in Spain). It would have been a boring day otherwise – not a thing in sight.
However the night was a different kettle of fish altogether… C was on watch T getting some rest before his watch, but was called early to check on some lights that were a wee bit confusing. It looked like a street by the amount and number of lights – including flashing orange light (like on the tractors etc at home). Couldn’t figure them all out and they were a bit close together to try to dodge between so we put the radar on to make sure that we got the closest point of approach worked out and moved left so that we weren’t going behind the fishing fleet (about 22 of them). But, they kept coming over the horizon more & more; there must have been more than 60 that we had seen the lights of and there were more looms of light (like a big town) over the horizon as we cleared the last of them. That kept us entertained from about 11:30pm ‘til 4am.
We got the engine off at about 9:30am and arrived in Santander at the back of 7pm with about 24 knots across the deck and doing about 7 through the water, the sea had lumped up a bit as well but it was a good sail with the wind and sea from astern ( and it quietened down when we were in the river). So that was Saturday.

Sun 26th
The marina is down by the airport, 25mins walk to the bus stop to get to Santander, 30mins on the bus but only 1.20 euros (each) each way. Had a good walk in Santander but everything shut – went to check out the alleged moorings or anchoring area at the posh sailing club but they were very un-welcoming (polite version..). They have a lovely pontoon there totally empty – yet it’s recommended in the sailing book…?

Mon 27th
Was spent by Carolyn getting the bus to the supermarket and Trevor walking several kilometres to get a plank of wood; (long story – longer walk) and checking the pilot books for future harbours and possible anchorages.

Tues 28th
We moved on to San Vicente da la Barquera which was supposed to have room for anchoring, a communal buoy or tie up alongside a fishing boat. No room to anchor, no communal buoy so it had to be the fishing boat. We tried to find out what time in the morning they were going and where the skipper was but no luck. Talked to one of the pescadors on another boat and he thought the one we were alongside would be going out about 5am (as they do).
Later on that night about 10pm another fisherman arrived and was very helpful and told us that the fishing boat was not going out in the morning and we could sleep all night. He couldn’t speak any English and also asked if he could have a look around – so we offered him a drink and let him look at our little boat. However he didn’t stay long and it was not ‘til he had gone that we noticed he had pocketed 50 euros. !!!! We didn’t sleep much that night wondering if he had really been from the boat next door or if he would be back to collect something else that he had taken a fancy to, or maybe he wasn’t from the boat next door and they would be down in the middle of the night to set sail for the fishing grounds. Well the guys from next door turned up at about 4am so we dashed up ready to move (slept – no, dozed – on the bed with clothes on just in case) but they were just collecting their waterproofs and going on another boat. ‘Light-fingers’ was not with them!
Lessons learnt – don’t be so trusting (go with your gut feeling) – don’t leave money lying about (because it is usually just the 2 of us on board, we became a little lax and didn’t put the attractive stuff away in drawers and cupboards).

Wed 29th
Last night spoiled San Vicente for us and we did not want to stay any longer and headed out just before dawn to Lastres (sometimes spelt with 2 ‘L’s at the beginning) – another fishing village. It was another long day and took us 11 hours to get there. However, what a difference – all the fishermen were very helpful and we were OK tied up alongside a Spanish sailing boat (a hire boat). The tide range was about 4 metre and there was no ladder to get up onto the jetty so we had to use the dinghy to get to a ladder, first time using the dinghy since Cameret.
The very attractive village is built above the harbour on the side of the hill and is a maze of small alleyways and is a place of great character. We had some great views from up the hill and walked past the Capitania on the way through the village (no one in the harbour had sent us up to it when we were asking were the Capitan was – they made the decision amongst themselves that we were OK where we were). So we checked-in with the Capitan de Puerto anyway and he was also very happy and helpful and got on the internet to check the weather forecast for the next few days. When we were continuing our walk a retired pescador started to chat to us and was commenting on how the weather had been absolutely horrible all over Spain this year and how it was just like Scottish weather. (all this idle chat with the locals is in Spanish so its quite difficult at times to catch it all especially when they speak so fast).
So – time for a coffee, lemonade and a sit down – we go to the ‘Bar Chico’ and order the drinks in my best Spanish. The barman just looks and puts a ‘7up’ on the counter – ‘ Si, esta bien!’ So I go back to the table while the coffee is made and brought out. Then the barman goes and comes back out with his own coffee – and hovers near the table a wee while – and then asks in perfect English ‘are we on holiday?’ Well it turns out that Martin (a well travelled and knowledgeable Fifer) owns and runs the place with his wife Trish, and live nearby in a smallholding. They were both very helpful and if anyone is touring in the area (or would like to explore by motorbike…) it’s well worth getting in touch with them. The whole of the north of Spain looks like it would be worth an extended visit. It was a great way to end our visit to Lastres and hope to get back there one day.

Fri 31st
So that was Wednesday and Thursday - and we move on to Gijon, just 4 hours and spend the night there. Swell gets into the marina and the WiFi is very poor so there is no real chance to catch up with all the stuff we need to do on the internet. We have noticed that we are still meeting up with the boats that are doing big hops along the coast (they are not getting much further), we think it’s because after the long hops you need to rest more and still do the other jobs like shopping and laundry etc.. However, as we write this in Viveiro we are now in the company of Jaap & Diana (from Holland) on their boat ‘Kiara’, we have been in the same places 3 times now and appear to be doing similar distances and have a similar outlook on everything. Good company! (check www.sykiara.nl ). Gijon had a National Geographic exhibition but we are still conscious about making progress west.

Sat 1st
September already – nearly been away 2 months (sometimes it seems longer).
Gijon to Aviles, which does not get a good write-up in the pilot books because it is an industrial town. However, the port police where very helpful and the old town very beautiful. When we were walking through there must have been a wedding taking place (judging by the way people were dressed) and there was a small band of Asturian pipers & drummers in the old town square by (one of the) old church. Bagpipes!! Brilliant – I just had to phone Alastair and let him hear them.
One of the down sides is that the town, being industrial with coke (as in made from coal….) factories etc, is quite dirty, but worth a visit.

Sun 2nd
Aviles to Ribadeo. It looks like the weather at Finisterre is getting worse in the next few days so we need to find a suitable place to wait out while it goes past. We had quite a good sail to Ribadeo after the wind picked up near lunchtime but there was a lot of slop and bounce (technical term) coming into the marina when we were on the pontoon – so not a place to sit out the bad weather. But Viveiro looks perfect. I checked in with the Italian Maritime Mobile net (14,297.5 @ 1900 gmt) last night and with the UK Maritime Mobile net (14,303 @ 0800 & 1800 gmt) on Monday morning before we left Ribadeo using the HF radio so we will try to keep up to date with those guys when the opportunities arise.

Mon 3rd
So we move on to Viveiro and met up again with Jaap & Diana. The small marina has perfect shelter and an old town nearby that we can explore, it is also handy for public transport but has no WiFi. Jaap has an external aerial for the WiFi with a 12Db gain which has given them very good reception so I think we will be adding one to the shopping list.
We had another good sail and the dolphins came to play, think the last time with the dolphins was the crossing to Santander. They’re always great to watch.
We will be here for a few days until the weather quietens down and explore the old town.